18 March 2007

Orange

St. Patrick's Day is over, so orange is back in! Here's the neckline:

I love the way it turned out. And here's the progress to date on sleeve(s).


As I had mentioned before, I decided to knit them down from the armscye and unvented Barbara Walker's technique. Heh. But I did end up looking in my "Knitting from the Top" book (awesome!) and got her take on it. I could have saved myself some serious time if I had just looked there first! I think I may have sprained my brain.

Adam asked about how short row shaping works on sleeves.... The short rows shape the sleeve cap much like they would shape the heel on that sock you mentioned! Really, all that is happening here is that, instead of shaping for a heel, you are shaping for the shoulder. On a sweater with drop shoulders, you wouldn't need any shaping because the sleeve is not rounded at all at the top. But if you look at a tech drawing of a shaped sleeve, the top is rounded to fit the shoulder. The short rows accomplish that shaping without me having to pick up a sewing needle to sew in my sleeves. *g*

To start, I picked up stitches all the way around and then knit two thirds of the way around, turned and began my short row shaping using Japanese short rows. Bb has asked me to explain these, so that will be my next post!

I love the way it fits - but I don't like the ridge I get here:



Here it is a little closer:

I'm only getting it on one side, which happens to be the back on this sleeve. However, the other side will have the ridge on the front, which I don't want. I think it will be more pronounced when it is blocked, so I am planning on a slight change on the next sleeve. I want to pick up as I go - knitting short rows around the sleeve (I will mark stitches first) so that the ridge is buried along the armscye. A friend suggested that I just sew up the other sleeve a bit to hide the ridge, and I think I will do that. I can't face ripping it out. Here is the other side of the sleeve and the underarm:

What I'm guessing is that the ridge on the other side is just from the stitches being deformed when they are forced to slant from the short rows. Has anyone else found this to be the case? And have you solved it?

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9 Comments:

Blogger Laritza said...

I am a new reader here :) I found your blog through blogland...have no idea where.
Anyway, I had the same thing happen with the ridge. I found that the way you work the wrap and the purl stitch on the wrong side row is what makes the difference. It is hard to explain but try purl two together (wrap and stitch) through the back loop and if that does not look better just turn the stitches on the needle....front legs to the back or the opposite depending on what you have. It will make a difference.
Hope this is a bit more clear than mud!

8:30 PM  
Anonymous Dipsy said...

What an amazingly beautiful sweater this is! Really, this must be one of the most gorgeous ones that I've seen for long - and the colour you're doing it with makes it even more awesome!
I had the same thing happening with the ridge with basically everything that I had to do it for so far, so I'm afraid I'm of not much help here. Actually, the way yours turned out looks so much better than mine always did - I think you could easily let it stay that way, it looks good indeed! But - what Laritza explained in the comment before mine, with trying to turn the stitches on the needle - this sounds like it'd work perfectly! And mind you, I'll be trying that too next time, I'm sure that this will make a difference!

1:36 AM  
Blogger CarolineF said...

Well I've never done this kind of thing from scratch, but 'Arches' has sleeves constructed this way. I didn't see any ridges on mine, it was more like the body rolled the tiniest bit over the picked-up row, which was not unattractive. Maybe it has more to do with how you wrap your short rows than anything, as Laritza says.

5:39 AM  
Blogger Dr. Steph said...

That sweater is gorgeous. The design is very similar to my favourite Koigu one (the collar and hems are the same--I am not surprised ;) ).

I had no idea about doing short rows for the armcyse so I'm no help. I would just seam the sleeve to deal with the ridge.

8:12 AM  
Blogger Melanie said...

Beautiful sweater! It just gets better and better.

7:18 PM  
Blogger AlisonH said...

That neck is enough to make me want to knit sweaters again--beautiful. I'm going to have to try out what Laritza said; I'm quite curious to see that in action.

6:59 PM  
Blogger AR said...

Oooh! It's looking good. I just love orange. :)

8:54 AM  
Anonymous Laura said...

Beautiful sweater! Here is my suggestion for the short rows at the shoulder: wrap and turn, but don't pick up the wrap at the end of the short rows. I make sure not to strangle the wrapped stitch, but the wrap itself disappears and there is no visible ridge at the end, but rather a very discreet "seam". It is my favorite way to knit set in sleeves.

2:32 PM  
Blogger Terri said...

Wow Rosemary. Your orange sweater is gorgeous. You knitting is amazing. I can't wait to see it finished.

5:43 PM  

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